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Lecturer(s)
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Kolčavová Sirková Brigita, doc. Ing. Ph.D.
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Bergmanová Vlastimila, Ing.
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Štefanov Martin, Bc.
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Course content
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Lectures: 1. Technological and professional prerequisites for the work of a textile designer. Range and principles of fabric patterning. Fashion trends and collection development including presentation. 2. Characteristics of dobby fabrics and their parameters. Basic weaves (plain, twill, satin) and their application in fabric patterning. 3. Derivatives of plain weave and their application in fabric patterning. 4.?5. Derivatives of twill weave and their application in fabric patterning. 6. Derivatives of satin weave and their application in fabric patterning. 7. Combined weaves (crepe, waffle, canvas, and piqué) and their application in fabric patterning. 8. Fabric patterning using weave combinations ? all-over, in stripes, checks, and on the diagonal. 9. Color patterning. Working with patterns. Tartans (plaids). Designs and colorways. 10. Classic patterning of small-scale motifs on fabric (the influence of color warping, weft insertion, and weave structure on fabric appearance). 11. From fiber to fabric. Piece goods (scarves, shawls, towels?). Fabric selvedges. 12. Comparison of dobby and jacquard fabrics. Patterning of simple jacquard fabrics. 13. Weaving techniques. Multi-weft, multi-warp, and multi-ply fabrics. 14. Textile trade fairs. Innovations. Exercises (Topics): 1. Yarns, yarn shade cards. Fabric parameters and basic calculations. Methods of recording fabric weaves, color warping, and color wefting. Practicing the technical fabric sample specification. 2. Principles of weaving on a manual pedal loom. Weaving samples according to the assignment and selecting own colorways. Determination of the fineness of used yarns and basic parameters of the woven fabric. Weaver's knot. TASK 1. 3. Patterning of woven structures, using DesignScope victor software for fabric simulation and its colorways. Patterning via shaft threading drafting and altering the weave pattern script. 4. Weave and color stripes. Patterning of longitudinal stripes, symmetrical stripe patterns. Awning fabric, shirting fabric. Tartan and its application in the apparel industry and home textiles. Design of a plaid pattern for outerwear in a women's collection, its processing, simulation, and presentation. SEMESTER PROJECT. 5. Realization of the designed pattern using two technologies: frame weaving (50 x 70 cm) and tufting (40 x 40 cm), real flat textiles ? part of the semester project. 6. Examples and evaluation of fabrics from a textile designer's perspective: evergreens in various interpretations according to fashion trends (houndstooth, tartans?), fabric samples, student works, industrial fabrics. TASK 2. 7. Possibilities on the Megado manual sampling loom. Designing a custom weave using computer technology and realization (creating loom control cards and weaving). TASK 3. Continuous work on semester assignments, submission of the semester project, final test.
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Learning activities and teaching methods
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Self-study (text study, reading, problematic tasks, practical tasks, experiments, research, written assignments), Working activities (workshops), Individual creative and artistic activities, Lecture, Practicum, E-learning
- Class attendance
- 84 hours per semester
- Semestral paper
- 40 hours per semester
- Preparation for credit
- 20 hours per semester
- Preparation for exam
- 48 hours per semester
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Learning outcomes
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In the course, students will be inform with the work of designer of dobby fabric. It is based on practice and is adapted to teaching. Possibilities of patterning of yard goods and piece products with regard to technological possibilities of weaving using various kinds of textile materials. Patterning systems and possibilities of fabrics creating. Information on basic and derived weaves, on special weaves, special techniques and their application. Use of CAD systems in fabric pattern design.
Students will improve their knowlegede of weaving fabrics and fabric patterning. They are able to create own fabric design.
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Prerequisites
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Orientation in structure of weaving concepts.
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Assessment methods and criteria
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Oral exam, Test
Attendance at lectures is compulsory. Credit requirements: active participation in seminars, realization of weaving according to assignment (weaving according to specification and weaving of own design), submission of partial tasks, semestral work (design of weaving fabric and its presentation using CAD system), successful completion of final test (two attempts). Exam: oral with short pre-preparation.
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Recommended literature
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ČSN 80 0020 Názvosloví tkalcovkých vazeb a vazebních technik..
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https://www.italtextrends.com (The Italian Trend Studio)..
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BEDNÁŘ, V., SVATOŠ, S. Vazby a rozbory tkanin I, Praha: SNTL, 1989. ISBN 80-03-00082-3.
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BEDNÁŘ, V., SVATOŠ, S. Vazby a rozbory tkanin II, SNTL 1991. ISBN 80-03-00591-4.
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KYBAL, A. O textilním výtvarném projevu, SPN Praha 1973. 168s., ISBN neuvedeno..
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Shenton, Jan. Woven Textile Design, Woodhead Publishing, 2014.
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TERŠL, S. Abeceda textilu a odívání, NORIS 1994.ISBN 80-900908-7-7.
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