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Lecturer(s)
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Suchomel Filip, doc. PhDr. Ph.D.
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Pomothy Adéla, Mgr.
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Nováková Kateřina, PhDr. Ph.D.
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Course content
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Lectures: 1. Pre-war situation and interwar situation in the world and in Czechoslovakia. Charles Federick Worth - Haute Couture. Paul Poiret, Coco Chanell, Christian Dior. Prague fashion houses Rosenbaum, Podolská, Bárta, Kníže. 2. Pre-war and interwar production of jewelry companies. Links of manufacturers to contemporary fashion trends, compilation of sales collections, jewelry of fashion designers, the influence of the Wiener Werkstätte tradition and the Bauhaus school. 3. 50s. "New Look," Christian Dior. Changing silhouettes, printed patterns. Fashion and ideology in the environment of the Soviet bloc. Nationalization of the network of fashion salons, the establishment of N. P. Textile production and other institutions. 4. 50s and the beginning of the author's jewelry. Individualization of creation, new materials, influences of free art on the form of jewelry. Development of the Czech jewelery industry after 1945, important companies and their production. 5. The 1960s as the last period of fashion dictation. The influence of social and cultural phenomena on the fashion of Hippies, pop music, modern fine arts. Fine art and fashion. 6. The 1960s as a period of new authorial jewelry creation in the world with manifestations of informal and body art. The first wave of young graduates of the jewelry studio at the Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague, Jablonec Jewelry Symposium 1968. The influence of the so-called "Brussels style" on the work of costume jewelry designers. 7. Ideology of bad taste and kitsch of the 70's, escalation of individualism, end of fashion dictation. The emergence of the fashion type of androgynous individuality of CS: textile industrial enterprises, exhibitions and fairs. 70s as a period of influence of taste and romanticizing tendencies in the creation of jewelry. A new wave of geometrism and non-traditional materials. Jewelery companies and their period production. 8. Commercial success, eccentricity, fashion of luxury and splendor of the 80's. Synthetic fibers, bright colors, denim. ČS: Upcyklace a domácí tvorba, Burda, Tesil a manšestráky, česká pop music. 9. 80s - new purity in jewelry and constructivist tendencies, as well as responses to eccentricity and luxury, New materials in the serial production of jewelry, presentation of jewelry and fashion accessories at Jablonec exhibitions. 10. Postmodernism of the 90s, generation X and "stealing the cultural cabinet of the past". Post-revolutionary period in Czechoslovakia, "golden nineties". 11. 90s and new development of Czech jewelry in the world context of jewelry symposia, exhibitions, seminars. Czech school of designer jewelry, jewelry symposium. Changes in the organization of Jablonec jewelery companies, new Czech companies. 12. Problems of 21st century fashion. Peak consumption, extremes in trends, the influx of cheap goods from the East. 13. 21st century and new trends in author's jewelry creation in the world. Important schools, collections, competitions and exhibitions of designer jewelry. Current serial production of jewelry and costume jewelry in the Czech Republic. Exercises: Study from the collections of the North Bohemian Museum Liberec and the Museum of Glass and Jewelery Jablonec n. N., visit to specialized events in the field, focus on current trends in designer jewelry, serial jewelry production, fashion and clothing, own presentation on a selected topic with lecture and discussion.
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Learning activities and teaching methods
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Self-study (text study, reading, problematic tasks, practical tasks, experiments, research, written assignments), Group consultation, Individual consultation, Lecture, Practicum
- Class attendance
- 56 hours per semester
- Preparation for credit
- 24 hours per semester
- Preparation for exam
- 40 hours per semester
- Home preparation for classes
- 20 hours per semester
- Semestral paper
- 40 hours per semester
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Learning outcomes
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Teaching will present individual trends in the development of fashion and clothing, jewelry and clothing accessories in the world and in the Czech Republic after 1945. in a broader political and socio-cultural context. Lectures map important moments that influenced style dressing, creation of fashion and designer jewelry in the individual decades of the 20th century. The course focuses on the mainstream, fashion brands, schools, companies, fashion designers, jewelry authors. More specifically, teaching also focuses on innovative trends in the use of materials, new technologies, clothing cuts and accessories since the end of World War II. war until of the present.
An overview of the current development of fashion and clothing.
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Prerequisites
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Completion of the subject Contemporary Art and Design 1 and 2 (KDE/SD1, KDE/SD2).
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Assessment methods and criteria
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Oral exam, Oral presentation of self-study
Credit: participation in exercises, elaboration of a semester work on a given topic. Exam: oral, defense of semester work.
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Recommended literature
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Móda - Dějiny odívání 18., 19. a 20. století. Praha: Slovart, 2003, 736 s.
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BAUDOT, F. Móda století. Z francouzského Mode du siécle. Praha: Ikar, Euromedia Group, 2001, s. 400. ISBN 80-7202-943-6.
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BECKER, V. Modeschmuck im Wandel der Zeit. München: Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1991. ISBN 3-453-04418-5.
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EISLER, E. 7 let K.O.V / 7 years K.O.V. Praha: UMPRUM, 2018. ISBN 978-80-86863-81-8.
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HLAVÁČKOVÁ, K. Ascher: Šílený hedvábník. Bratislava: Slovart, 2019, 384 s. ISBN 978-80-7101-178-1.
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HLAVÁČKOVÁ, K. Česká móda 1940-1970-Zrcadlo doby. Praha: Olympia, 2000, s. 126. ISBN 80-7033-019-8.
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HLAVÁČKOVÁ, K. Kytky v popelnici. Praha, 2009, 168 s. ISBN 9788071010722.
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HLAVÁČKOVÁ, K. Móda za železnou oponou. Praha: Grada, 2016, 288 s. ISBN 978-80-247-5833-6.
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HÖLSCHER, P. Jablonec´68. München: Arnoldsche, Neue Sammlung, 2018. ISBN 978-3-89790-519-1.
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JONAS, S. Móda v proměnách času. Dobřejovice: Rebo Productions, 2008, 295 s. ISBN 9788072348572.
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KŘÍŽOVÁ, A. Proměny českého šperku na konci 20. stolet. Praha: Academia, 2002. ISBN 80-200-0920-5.
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KYBALOVÁ, L., JAROŠOVÁ, H. Současná česká móda - Contemporary Czech Fashion, Praha: Allcore, 2002. ISBN 80-903151-0-0.
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KYBALOVÁ, L. Od "zlatých dvacátých" po Diora. Praha: Lidové noviny, 2009. ISBN 80-7106-149-6.
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LIPOVETSKY, G. Říše pomíjivosti: Móda a její osud v moderních společnostech. Praha: Prostor, 2002, 446 s. ISBN 80-7260-063-X.
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MÁCHALOVÁ, J. Budiž móda. Praha: Brána, 2012, 300 s. ISBN 978-80-7243-608-8.
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NOVÁ, J. Jablonecké výstavy 1959 - 1987. Jablonec nad Nisou: Muzeum skla a bižuterie, 2011. ISBN 978-80-86397-13-9.
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NOVÁK V. K., COGAN, M., NOVÁKOVÁ, K. Tentokrát/ This Time. 1996. Praha: UMPRUM, 1999.
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NOVÁK, V. K. Identifikace / 33 semestry. Liberec: Knihy 555, 2007. ISBN 80-86660-19-2.
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NOVÝ, P. Jablonecká bižuter. Praha: Grada Publishing, a. s., 2008. ISBN 978-80-247-2250-4.
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SEELINGOVÁ, CH. Století módy 1900 - 1999. Praha: Slovart, 2000. ISBN 80-7209-247-2.
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SKARLANTOVÁ, J. Od fíkového listu k džínům. Praha: Grada, 1999. ISBN 80-7169-785-0.
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UCHALOVÁ, E., HLAVÁČKOVÁ, K. Sport a móda. Praha: Obecní dům, 2004, 23 s. ISBN 80-86339-27-0.
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VOGEL, P. Být součástí / To Be a Part. Plzeň: Západočeská univerzita, 2017. ISBN 978-80-261-0734-7.
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