Course: Construction and Fabric Design

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Course title Construction and Fabric Design
Course code KTT/KOV
Organizational form of instruction Lecture + Lesson
Level of course Bachelor
Year of study 3
Semester Winter
Number of ECTS credits 5
Language of instruction Czech, English
Status of course Compulsory
Form of instruction Face-to-face
Work placements Course does not contain work placement
Recommended optional programme components None
Lecturer(s)
  • Kolčavová Sirková Brigita, doc. Ing. Ph.D.
  • Lenfeldová Irena, Ing. Ph.D.
Course content
Lectures: 1. Introduction, terminology, trends and possibilities in designing dobby fabric. Construction of dobby fabrics. 2. Possibilities of designing of dobby fabrics in terms of machine parameters, fabric parameters. 3.-4. Derived weaves in relation to designing of dobby fabric. 5. Techniques for designing of dobby fabric - patterning possibilities in stripes (transverse, longitudinal), setting of weaving machine and individual mechanism for weaving. 6. Techniques for designing of dobby fabric - patterning possibilities in squares and rectangles (transverse, longitudinal), setting of weaving machine and individual mechanism for weaving. 7. Techniques for designing of dobby fabric - gradels. 8. Other techniques for designing of fabric. 9. General term, characteristics and the four primary base weft knitted structures, threads used in knitting technology, basic parameters of knitted fabrics. 10. Weft knitted fabrics - single-faced, double-faced and purl structures. 11. Basic mechanical principles of knitting technology (the drop or press-off stitch, float and tuck stitches, loop transfer stitches, coloured stitch designs, etc), principles of patterning including jacquard with handle of V-bed rib flat machines. 12. The Shima total design system - patterning possibilities. 13. Jacquard double-jersey structures (single-jersey) with using the software SDS One. 14. Knitting to shape with using the software SDS One (welts, rib borders, etc.). Practice: 1. Basic possibilities of interlacing - weaving of samples with basic weave patterns on needle weaving machines CCI with dobby sheds in KTT laboratories. 2. - 3. Possibilities of interlacing using derived weaves - weaving of samples with basic weave patterns on needle weaving machines CCI with dobby sheds in KTT laboratories. 4. - 5. Design of woven fabrics No.1 (individual work) - processing of design of patterned dobby fabric with transversal and longitudinal strips using techniques: combinations of weaves, gradels. Weaving of fabric No.1 on needle weaving machines CCI with dobby sheds in weaving lab KTT. 6. - 8. Design of woven fabrics No.2 (individual work) - processing of design of dobby fabric patterned in squares and rectangular using techniques: combinations of weaves. Weaving of fabric No.2 on needle weaving machines CCI with dobby sheds in weaving lab KTT . 9. Software SDS One - general functions and design handle. 10. Software SDS One - patterning possibilities and process design. 11. Knitting of weft fabrics in knitting lab KTT (Shima Seiki) - size of samples, yarn carrier arrangement and machine setting). 12. Desing of jacquard knitted structures (software SDS One). 13. Desing of knitted structures with widening or narrowing (software SDS One). 14. Knitting with V-bed rib flat machines - production of design samples and structures with the individual machine setting in knitting lab KTT.

Learning activities and teaching methods
Monological explanation (lecture, presentation,briefing), Dialogue metods(conversation,discussion,brainstorming), Self-study (text study, reading, problematic tasks, practical tasks, experiments, research, written assignments), Demonstration, Project teaching
  • Class attendance - 56 hours per semester
  • Home preparation for classes - 24 hours per semester
  • Presentation preparation (report) - 10 hours per semester
  • Individual project - 25 hours per semester
  • Preparation for exam - 40 hours per semester
Learning outcomes
Within this subject students obtain information about these areas: construction of woven and knitted fabric, threads interlacing in woven fabric, weave techniques in woven fabrics, CAD systems for design of woven and knitted fabric, design of dobby fabric, design of weft knitted fabric.
Students improve their knowlegde from the field of fabrics weaves and fabric design. They are able to create own fabric design with utilization of system DesignScope Victor - EAT.
Prerequisites
Knowledge of subjects: Weaving, Knitting. Orientation in weaves of fabrics.
KTT/TKL and KTT/PLT

Assessment methods and criteria
Combined examination, Student's performance analysis

Credit: Presentation and defense of project work. Distance form: Active participation with the teacher in the distance form within the assigned topics, elaboration of the assignment of the relevant topics assigned by the distance form. Submission of assignments and project work 15.1.2021. Examination: written and oral.
Recommended literature
  • Manuál CAD systému SDS ONE (for knitting).
  • Manuál CAD systému VictorDesignScop - EAT - žakárské tkaniny..
  • Hlavatý, Moravec, V. Vazby a rozbory tkanin 1. a 2. část, SNTL 1988.
  • Hruda, Moravec, V. Technologie 1, 2. část (Technologie přípravy a tkaní. Vazby listových tkanin)..
  • KOČÍ, V. Vazby pletenin. Praha: SNTL - Nakladatelství technické literatury, 1980. ISBN 04-825-80.
  • Kovaříková, M. Vazby a rozbory pletenin. SNTL Praha, 1987.
  • Spencer D. J.:. Knitting technology a comprehensive handbook and practical guide. Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England,, 2001.


Study plans that include the course
Faculty Study plan (Version) Category of Branch/Specialization Recommended year of study Recommended semester
Faculty: Faculty of Textile Engineering Study plan (Version): Textile Technologies, Materials and Nanomaterials (2012) Category: Textile production and clothing industry 3 Recommended year of study:3, Recommended semester: Winter
Faculty: Faculty of Textile Engineering Study plan (Version): Textile Technologies, Materials and Nanomaterials (2012) Category: Textile production and clothing industry 3 Recommended year of study:3, Recommended semester: Winter